Grand Canyon Hike: not a one-time trip!

You only need to stand on the rim of the Grand Canyon once to know why it’s one of the 7 natural wonders of the world. However, as awe-inspiring as the view from the rim might be, nothing beats getting down in the canyon!  

My family of four booked a hike with Grand Canyon Journeys to celebrate Spring Break 2021, and it was worth every penny! After departing Sedona in the early morning with our truly amazing (and fascinating) guide Nina Rehfeld, we drove a little over two hours to the south rim entrance.

Our South Kaibab hike (a classic Grand Canyon trail!) began with ice on the switchbacks and temperatures in the 30s,  but it warmed up quickly as we hiked down into the canyon. Be sure to hike with a plan and know your turnaround point in advance! We hiked about 1.5 miles down and 1.5 back up.

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We turned around at Cedar Ridge to enjoy the stunning views and make use of the functional, well-situated (and very “fragrant”) bathrooms. The first half of our hike was a nice, easy, cool stroll down to Cedar Ridge, during which we descended 1,100 feet. With the sun beaming down and the weather warming up, we turned around and started gaining back all of our lost elevation. The hike back out was much more challenging but no less rewarding, and we returned to the trailhead in time to make our lunch reservation at the historic El Tovar, situated right on the south rim. Our 11-year-old twins ran ahead of us and did great on this hike, but younger kids might struggle on the walk back up.

If you plan to hike all the way down to the river and back in one day, be prepared both mentally and physically. A popular way to do this is to take the South Kaibab trail down to the bottom of the canyon, followed by a return up to the rim on Bright Angel Trail. For more info on this hike, check out this link.

Gear:

• Crampons if the weather necessitates: The top of the South Kaibab trail was covered in ice during our mid-March trip. Thankfully our guide had crampons for all of us to put over our trail shoes. Other hikers were slipping, struggling for balance, or just sliding down portions of the trail on their butts! Apparently it worked, but I’m guessing they had soggy pants for the rest of their hike…
• Two sources of water: You want at least two containers of water to be safe on these hikes. Don’t let a busted water bladder or cracked Nalgene lid ruin your day.
• Dress in layers: Temperatures can change 10-30+ degrees as you hike from the rim to the Colorado River. Dress responsibly.
• Rain jacket (hooded, lightweight, waterproof, breathable)
• Backpack (find a Camelbak or a backpack with side pockets for water bottles if you want to simplify water breaks)
• Salty snacks: As you drink lots of water to stay hydrated, salty snacks help prevent hyponatremia.
• Ziplock bags to pack your trash out
• National park pass or cash to pay the entrance fee
• Lots of sunscreen!
• Trail shoes (break them in before coming!)

Summer temperatures can be sweltering in the canyon. Winter is often the best season for hiking, though backpackers should be prepared for snow and ice.

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Books to read before going:

• Over the Edge: Death in Grand Canyon. I know it sounds morbid, but it’s fascinating!
• No Barriers: A Blind Man’s Journey to Kayak the Grand Canyon. This book also has a young adult adaptation that both of our boys loved.

Why I want to go back:

I would LOVE to get a one- or two-night permit to stay in the Indian Garden Campground and from there hike out to Plateau Point and down to the Colorado River. Plateau Point is located just off Bright Angel Trail. Per our guide Nina Rehfeld, at night the foot traffic subsides and you’re left with a full sky of stars in one of the most remote, gorgeous places in the world. She has hiked all over Arizona and raved about this spot. Keep in mind that in the canyon you need backcountry hiking and camping permits. You can get permits up to four months in advance, so mark your calendar. The park receives about 30,000 requests for backcountry permits each year but only issues around 13,000 permits — the earlier you start planning, the better!

I would also love to plan a rafting trip through the Grand Canyon with Grand Canyon Expeditions. Their trips are designed to help you experience areas of the Grand Canyon that are only found from the water!

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