Hiking Middle Tennessee and the Cumberland Plateau

When I attended the University of the South (Sewanee), the natural beauty of the surrounding area was apparent. Situated on the Cumberland Plateau, the University boasts 13,000 acres of land, referred to as “the Domain.” 

I wish that I had prioritized exploring the surrounding forest, caves, waterfalls, and bluffs during my Sewanee enrollment. Instead, I spent most of my free time as a student socializing. My friends and I were mingling at parties, not while hiking or camping! 

Fortunately, my college friendships continued beyond our years on the Domain. I missed our fifth reunion because of law school exams, and a busy work schedule made me miss my tenth. I was determined not to miss the fifteen-year reunion. Mike (my husband) and I rented a house with four friends for the reunion. Looking to escape the Texas heat, I convinced Mike that the cooler temperatures of the Cumberland Plateau and the network of friends nearby made Monteagle, Tennessee the perfect summer vacation spot. We have been renting houses in Monteagle ever since,  only missing the summer of 2020 when the pandemic hit.

Until last year, Mike and I were able to take Merrin, our 6-year-old daughter, with us in a carrier when hiking on the Domain and in the surrounding area. Merrin does not like to hike right now. For that reason, we limit long hikes to times when she can stay with a sitter or hang out with friends.

Signature Features of Middle Tennessee Excursions:

It sounds crazy to expect “WOW” destinations or features of every hike in a particular area, but Middle Tennessee and the Cumberland Plateau do not disappoint. My favorite landmarks include:

• waterfalls,
• flowing streams,
• bluffs overlooking mountains and forest,
• caves,
• stone steps constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corps, and
• trails with ceilings of rocky overhang.

Middle Tennessee Best Waterfall Hikes:

I highly recommend seeking out at least one waterfall experience when visiting Middle Tennessee. It’s hard to believe that so many postcard-worthy waterfalls exist within an hour-long drive of Monteagle. Here are a few of the highlights.

• Sewanee has its very own Bridal Veil Falls on the Domain. To access Bridal Veil Falls, start on campus at Morgan’s Steep, to the right of the overlook. The trail descends steeply for about a mile until you reach the main event – water running off a cliff sixty feet to a basin below. The basin is not accessible for swimming. My favorite part of this hike is the “air conditioner” effect at the base of the falls.
• Greeter Falls is located in Savage Gulf State Natural Area. A challenging hike, including a spiral staircase at the end, pays off big time, with a swimming hole below the 50-foot lower falls. Don’t miss the less dramatic, but still beautiful, upper falls. Combine the waterfall hike with a detour to Blue Hole and the bluff overlooks that can be reached from the same trail.

• For a great swimming hole at the base of a waterfall, check out Rutledge Falls near Manchester, Tennessee. The falls and swimming hole are accessible with hardly any hiking. This destination is perfect for families with children. Water shoes with traction are highly recommended, and children are likely to need assistance descending the final rock scramble down to the swimming hole. Expect crowds on hot, weekend days.

Best Hikes for Enjoying the Soundtrack of Running Water:

With the sound of running streams to keep you company, it’s hard not to feel relaxed while you are hiking through the forest. For this type of experience, I recommend the following:

• The section of Sewanee’s Perimeter Trail from Morgan’s Steep to the Memorial Cross is the most popular segment of the trail for a reason. After a good rain, the trail crosses several brooks running down the side of the Cumberland Plateau. Another highlight is “Proctor’s Hall,” a natural tunnel created by boulders stacked together on the side of the mountain. To access the trail from Morgan’s Steep, take the stone steps, originally installed by the Civilian Conservation Corps, to the left of the overlook. If you want a quicker hike or are hiking with children, it may be advisable to drop a car at one end of the trail and start at the other end. The rock face that must be climbed to access Proctor’s Hall may not be suitable for younger children, unless you can lift them up to another adult.

• The Grundy Forest Day and Sycamore Falls Combination Loop at Grundy Forest State Natural Area is another Civilian Conservation Corps trail with the draw of running water. The full hike is a loop, with an optional out-and-back, to access the waterfall. Though the loop is a fairly easy trail, terrain leading out to the falls is quite rocky, and I recommend not attempting it without at least trail runners. Hiking boots would be even better.

• The Buggytop Trail to Lost Cove Cave is a fairly challenging, out-and-back hike, with steep terrain and a rock scramble at the end. The payoff is well worth the effort, however. A large stream flows out of Lost Cove Cave at this entrance, and hikers will find it hard to resist venturing inside. Rangers provide tours of Lost Cove Cave. These tours can be scheduled through the Tennessee State Parks website.

Best Hike for Scenic Overlooks:

An out-and-back trail to rock outcroppings can be added to the Greeter Falls loop discussed above. That trail definitely is worth doing if you are visiting Greeter Falls, but the absolute best scenic overlooks can be found off the Old Stone Door hike at Savage Gulf State Natural Area. Step out of the forest onto cliffs overlooking Savage Gulf. Get a sense of the vastness of the Cumberland Plateau. You will almost certainly see large birds riding the wind currents and perching on the cliffs. Continue past the primary overlook to the “Stone Door” itself, a set of steep steps descending through a crack in the bluff. The trail continues past the Stone Door, but an out-and-back hike from the parking lot to the Stone Door is the perfect length for children, who will marvel at the steep steps and the rock strata that can be viewed easily on either side of the stairway.

Middle Tennessee-Specific Considerations:

In addition to taking usual precautions when hiking, wear bug spray to protect against ticks that may transmit Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever. Fortunately, ticks in this area are unlikely to carry Lyme disease. Rattlesnakes and copperheads are a concern, especially during dry periods. Stick to the trail, and look before grabbing a tree or rock for support.