Oregon Coast: Manzanita and Cannon Beach, October 2021

I had the luxury of spending over a week (5 days with close friend, Rebecca Barham, followed by 4 days with my family) on the Oregon coast in early October. During our amazing visit the low was 45 and the high was 66. It was the perfect escape from the heat and ACL crowds in Austin.

The Oregon coast has so much to offer: glorious views of the Pacific around nearly every bend, dozens of state parks with broad, sandy beaches, forests teeming with wildlife (so many elk!), and rugged headlands. Additionally, there are dozens of small towns with beautiful art galleries, quaint bookshops, ice cream parlors, and local eateries at every corner serving clam chowder, craft beer, and fantastic wine! There are also plenty of local cannabis dispensaries if that’s more your speed.

Most importantly, there is an activity for everyone in northwest Oregon. Think hiking, surfing, fishing, kayaking and crabbing. I also can’t get over how much respect the locals have for the land. Despite being such a dog-friendly area, we didn’t see any dog waste on the beach, nor did we see any trash on the beaches or in the state parks. It was so refreshing to visit a place where the locals’ respect for mother nature was evident in the pristine natural spaces.

Best Time to Visit:

On our last day in Cannon Beach it started to hail, and—at the risk of sounding like one of the Starks from Game of Thrones)—, it was a reminder that winter was coming. Oregon’s storm season was approaching, and US Highway 101 and the surrounding areas would soon be harder to access. June through October is definitely the high season for this region.

After talking to a few local business owners and travel advisors (and taking into consideration how perfect my visit was), it became clear that savvy visitors have learned that September and October are the best months to enjoy an authentic and enjoyable Cannon Beach and Manzanita experience. Summer, despite the crowds and traffic, still remains the most popular to visit. 

Logistics:

I flew non-stop from Austin to Portland on Alaska Air. From there, you can pick up a rental car (no shuttle needed to access rental cars!) and drive two hours northwest to scenic Manzanita.

Restaurants on the way to Cannon Beach from Portland:

Based on your arrival time, you can stop at:

• Salty’s: If you just can’t wait to try some local clam chowder while enjoying a scenic view, head directly to Salty’s on the Columbia River. It’s on the outskirts of Portland in the marina area. Salty’s is not open on Mondays.

• McMenamin’s Rock Creek Tavern: If you want to make some headway before stopping for lunch, McMenamins Rock Creek Tavern in Hillsboro is your spot. It’s a 45-minute drive from the Portland airport. Nice wood decor and warm fireplaces will welcome you. Evenings always have live music and a crowd of locals. 

Lodging:

During the busiest weeks of the year, there are often few options for staying in Cannon Beach and Manzanita. If you’re planning on staying, make sure you have reservations well in advance of your visit. 

• Stephanie Inn: Oregon’s premier oceanfront destination! Children must be older than 12 to stay. Each room comes with a gas fireplace and scenic deck. Request one of the upper-floor Oceanfront Dormer Suites or Oceanfront Corner Suites, which are augmented by separate living and dining areas and balconies that provide sweeping sea views.
• Surfsand Resort: Premier location that is both kid-friendly and pet-friendly.
• VRBO: There are a few new properties right next to the Ecola State Park entrance (Sea Wind Home) and walking distance from downtown Cannon Beach and the ocean. There are also a few homes available on Ocean Avenue in Manzanita with gorgeous views.
• Ocean Lodge: Pet- and kid-friendly resort right next door to Stephanie Inn with great views.
• For the WOW factor, check out The House at Arch Cape Beach Home or the Arch Cape Oceanside Escape.  

Favorite Restaurants:

• Wayfarer Restaurant & Lounge for fantastic views
• Public Coast Brewing Co.
• Bill’s Tavern and Brewhouse
• Sleepy Monk Coffee Roasters for breakfast
• Pelican Brewing
• The Winery at Manzanita

What I would pass on:

My friend Rebecca and I drove an hour out of our way (2 hours roundtrip from Manzanita) to spend 30 minutes checking out the Tillamook Creamery. While the ice cream was decent, and it was interesting to see how the cheese was prepared and packaged, personally, it just wasn’t enough to justify the drive. My advice, stick to the coast!

Activities in the Cannon Beach/Manzanita Area:

• Ecola State Park ($5 admission fee):
  • The park’s network of trails includes an 8-mile segment of the Oregon Coast Trail and a 2.5-mile historical interpretive route called the Clatsop Loop Trail. 
  • Visit Indian Beach, a secluded sandy beach popular with surfers and beach goers, offering tide pools and scenic splendor.
  • Crescent Beach Trail is another popular hike here that is 3.6 miles.
  • Drivers beware: the narrow two-way road to get to the parking lot can get a little dicey if there is a lot of traffic.

• Take in the natural features of Haystack Rock while relaxing on Cannon Beach.
  • Enjoy cliffside viewpoints of secluded coves, forested promontories, and even a long-abandoned lighthouse while walking this beach.
  • Beyond towering over Cannon Beach, Haystack Rock is home to an array of seabirds (including nesting puffins) as well as starfish dotted tidal pools filled with vibrant anemones and crabs.
  • You’ll easily see why this area was called one of the 100 Most Beautiful Places in the World by National Geographic.

• Kayak Tillamook:  Reservations are required for the 2-hour Harbor Sea Tour on the Nehalem River. Josh is an excellent guide!

• Kelly’s Brighton Marina:
  • Learn how to catch, cook, and eat crab from the biggest crabbing enthusiast on the Oregon Coast, Kelly himself! We did not come prepared for this activity. Rainboots, rain pants, and rain jackets are encouraged.

• Hiking in Oswald West State Park:
  • I enjoyed this hike so much I did it twice. We took the Short Sand Trail to Short Sand Beach (aka Smuggler’s Cove). From there you can veer off to the Cape Falcon Trail. It is a moderate hike that is 4.6 miles roundtrip and is about 300 feet in elevation gain. It takes about two and a half hours and winds you up and around the cape and a myriad of viewpoints, all of which are breathtaking. Wear the right shoes; it gets a little muddy.
  • For those who really want to get their hike on, there’s an eight-mile trail that takes you all the way to Arch Cape. Download maps in advance because there is limited wifi. There were no maps at the trailheads during our visit.

• Hug Point State Recreation Site

• SUP Manzanita

• Paragliding: The weather didn’t cooperate for us, but the team at Discovery Paragliding are master-rated instructors who can take you to heights yet only imagined. Whether it’s a scenic tandem flight or an extended instructional experience, they are there to give you the best experience possible! 

• Manzanita Beach: 7-mile beach

Activities in the Seaside Area:

We only took a day trip to Seaside because my boys wanted to hit up the Nike Factory store and the famous Sea Star Gelato shop. I would love to come back and take a surf lesson here with Oregon Surf Adventures. It is only 9 miles from Cannon Beach. Also of note, there were no outdoor sporting goods stores in Cannon Beach (opportunity alert!), so head to Walmart in Seaside if you forget anything. Seaside is pretty touristy, but it does have an abundance of restaurant options.

What you need to know before venturing out to the area beaches:

Beach Safety is Key
Large holes left unattended are not legal in Cannon Beach. Please fill any holes you dig at the end of the day, so no one gets hurt if they step in them.

Watch out for Sneaker Waves
Always keep one eye on the ocean so you won’t be caught off guard if a bigger wave surges up the beach. These “sneaker waves” are unpredictable, powerful, and can easily knock adults off their feet. We watched it happen (he was fine, just a little shaken).

Watch for falling rocks
Avoid walking along the base of cliffs or eroding bluffs. Chunks of rock can fall at any time; areas with overhangs and caves are especially dangerous. Do not dig in cliffs or bluffs no matter what region you are in.

Avoid Logs on the Beach
Stay away from logs on the beach or in the surf. The logs absorb water like sponges, increasing their weight by up to several tons. The ocean is strong enough to pick up even the heaviest log. Also of note, if you see what looks like clams all over a log on the beach, you may be looking at Pelagic Gooseneck Barnacles.

Know the Tides
Know when the tide is coming in, especially when exploring tidepools or secluded beaches. Incoming tides can quickly leave you stranded away from shore. Be extra careful during extreme high or low tides and storms.

Pro-tip:

If you wear yourself out hiking and surfing on the Oregon coast, add on a few days at Allison Inn if time allows. It’s just under 2 hours from Portland by car. This is wine country where Pinot Noir is king! Relax with your choice of winery (reservations required), spa treatments, or a hot air balloon adventure with Vista Hot Air Balloon.

In Conclusion:

Cannon Beach has been on my radar since the Goonies debuted in 1985. We still watch it every year! I love the misty scenic beach scene with Haystack Rock in the background and have been craving the cool and moody weather of the Pacific Northwest ever since I first saw One-Eyed Willie’s ship sail off into the horizon. The Oregon coast is definitely a destination to which I look forward to returning!