Exploring Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands

Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands remains a territory under the British Crown and is world-renowned for its excellent sailing, snorkeling, deep-sea fishing, reef fishing, yachting, diving, and dazzling beaches. The islanders here are resilient. They survived the devastation from Hurricane Irma in 2017, they made it through the Covid shutdown when tourism came to a screeching halt, and they will be here when you are ready to explore their turquoise blue waters, pristine beaches, and slower pace of life. While I wanted to visit all the principal British Virgin Islands (Tortola, Virgin Gorda, Anegada, and Jost Van Dyke), we just didn’t have enough time, so the focus of this article is beautiful Virgin Gorda.

British Virgin Islands:

Spoiler Alert: I know I just said this post is about Virgin Gorda, but I fell in love with all the British Virgin Islands, and I am already thinking about our next trip! I’m not sure what the crowds are like in “normal” times, but I am exploring some summer sailing camps in the area for my kids so we all have an excuse to come back. I did Sail Caribbean as a teen in the BVIs and loved it. Action Quest is also in the area and has a similar offering.

Regardless, now is a great time to visit the islands to enjoy reduced rates and the absence of crowds, which makes it easier to island hop, make dinner reservations, or find available mooring buoys if you are traveling by boat! The BVIs are the epitome of unpretentious beach travel!

Getting There:

Getting there requires a little bit of work, even without current Covid protocols! The majority of travelers fly first to Puerto Rico, then to Tortola Beef Island Airport, and finally hop on a ferry. Another option is to fly to St. Thomas followed by a seaplane (Shoreline Aviation) to Tortola, followed by another short ferry to Virgin Gorda.

Because of Covid restrictions and a complicated customs situation going between the US and British Virgin Islands, we chose option 1 and flew into Tortola Beef Island airport followed by a 20-minute water taxi. If you want to check out multiple islands– outside of chartering or owning a catamaran or yacht– you can opt to spend a few nights in Tortola (maybe even hit up one of the famous full moon parties on the beach) before heading to Virgin Gorda followed by half-day or full-day boat rentals to see the rest of the principal islands. If your lodging will not be helping you arrange transportation from the airport, Wheatley Transportation Services (30 years in business) can help with both taxi and water ferry service. They (Dorna and Rico) also arrange ferry service from St. Thomas to Tortola. Rico’s Transportation is another great option.

Getting Around:

You will need a car to get around the island provided you are comfortable driving on the left side of the road. Ask your hotel if they offer rental cars. Many do, including Mini Moke rentals!  Speedy’s Car Rentals in Spanish Town also offers Mini Mokes, which hold up to four people and are the perfect way to get around the island (imagine if a Jeep and a golf cart had a baby, and you should have a pretty good idea of what a Mini Moke looks like). Some resorts will contract with the rental agency for you and have the car brought to the hotel on the day(s) that you desire. I have found this to be an option on many of the smaller islands that we have visited. Local taxis are also an option.

Virgin Gorda Lodging:

• Chartered sailboat from The Moorings on mainland Tortola: Slips and mooring buoys are available in several locations on Virgin Gorda.
• Little Dix Bay: A pet project of Laurance Rockefeller now managed by Rosewood. It’s the best spot to stay for rest and relaxation on secluded white sandy beaches offering top-notch food options and luxurious accommodations.
• Guavaberry Spring Bay Vacation Homes: Perfectly Located in between The Baths and Spring Bay National Park.
• Bitter End Yacht Club: Scheduled to reopen in December 2021 as they finish remodeling to repair Hurricane Irma damage. They offer fantastic adventure packages including wind surfing and kiteboarding.

Virgin Gorda’s Trip Highlights:

Spring Bay National Park:

This hidden gem is often overlooked in favor of the Baths, but it was hands-down one of our favorite spots. It offers protected snorkeling in turquoise blue water, bouldering, hidden coves, and access to Little Trunk and Valley Trunk beaches.

• What to know: Come prepared as there is no food, beverage or bathrooms in Spring Bay. Head up to the Baths after your hike for lunch and bathrooms at either Top of the Baths restaurant or Mad Dog Bar and Grill. The bathrooms and outside shower are located behind the ticket “office”.

• Directions to Little Trunk and Valley Trunk: Both are accessible via boat drops, although the easiest way to get there is to park at Spring Bay Park, turn right upon hitting the beach, and keep going. You will see a rope on top of a boulder to help you navigate the trek from Little Trunk to Valley Trunk. If you are snorkeling between Little Trunk and Valley Trunk, be mindful of the strong current here.

The Baths:

• Probably the most popular site on the BVIs is this collection of massive granite boulders, white sand beaches, beautiful caves and molten rock pools. It is also the site of Poor Man’s Bar, a great place to grab a drink after a long day. Don’t forget to say hello to Lily for more on the history of the place. He can usually be found designing and selling shirts by Poor Man’s Bar. He went to school at NYU, traveled the world as a musician with several prominent reggae bands, and came back home to Virgin Gorda to settle down.

Gorda Peak National Park:

• Gorda Peak boasts the highest point on Virgin Gorda at 1,370 feet, giving its visitors some spectacular views. Unfortunately, we found the park to be permanently closed upon our arrival. According to the rumor mill, it was shut down due to some illegal farming, but who knows what is really going on. We were extremely disappointed that we couldn’t hike this area.

Highlights Accessible via Boat Charter:

• Willy T’s: Possibly my new favorite bar in the world. Named after William Thornton, a British-American man born on Jost van Dyke and best known for being the architect who designed the United States Capitol Building. This floating watering hole is located in Bight Bay off the coast of Norman Island. It is only accessible by boat. My kids loved diving and jumping off the top deck and the snorkeling off the front of the boat was gorgeous. The drinks are great, but it’s true bar food. If you want something a little less likely to clog your arteries, check out Pirate’s Bight Bar.
• Norman Caves – great snorkeling spot
• Prickly Pear Island: Outside of offering fantastic snorkeling, there is a hiking trail leading from Sand Box Bar down to the North Beach.
• Loblolly Beach, Anegada: Absolutely stunning turquoise sea meets silky-soft white sand and swaying palms at Loblolly. Anegada is a snorkeler’s and diver’s paradise, with diverse and colorful coral reefs surrounding it. Keep in mind that the boat ride from Virgin Gorda to Anegada can take an hour or more.

Gear Essentials:

• I highly recommend that you bring your own mask and snorkel with you.
• Water shoes/aqua socks are a must-have for exploring along the water’s edge.
• Certified divers must bring their C-Card if they plan to dive.
• No need to bring adapters if coming from the US. Every outlet we saw was the standard 110V we have at home.
• Documentation: All visitors to the Caribbean, including those from the United States and Canada, need to carry a valid passport for entry into, and departure out of, the British Virgin Islands. Visitors from some countries may also require a visa for entry.
• Currency is in U.S. dollars.

Private Boat Charters:

• C and D Charters: C and D offers power boat charters with skipper (options from 31’ to 39’)
• DeDe’s Charters: Great for island hopping or deep-sea fishing (options from 36’ to 42’)
• Pelican Charters: This 46-foot Mediterranean sunseeker Portofino provides all the modern amenities. Catering available.

Favorite Restaurants:

• Hog Heaven: Perched above the North Sound with panoramic views of Mosquito, Prickly Pear, and Necker islands glimmering offshore. This is the perfect stopover located way up on a hill near Gorda Peak National Park. Our trusty Mini Moke struggled a little on the hills, but we made it up!
• Top of the Baths: Great lunch spot when exploring Spring Bay or the Baths. This lunch spot includes great views, a bar, a gift shop, an ice cream shop, and a pool. It’s a fantastic spot for entertaining the kiddos and shopping for souvenirs.
• CocoMaya: This upscale, beach chic restaurant, bar, and lounge is located on a white sandy beach in the heart of Spanish Town. Great sushi, fantastic views, and corn hole!

Why I want to Come Back to the BVIs:

All of the BVIs are gorgeous, and the locals are friendly, welcoming, and endearing. My next trip will be focused on sailing and Anegada. It is such an undeveloped beauty, and they have the best lobster in the area.

Books set in the BVI’s to Indulge in Before Your Trip:

• Land of Love and Drowning by Tiphanie Yanique 
• Irma Was Here: Surviving the Eye of History’s Strongest Atlantic Hurricane by Diandra Jones