Lanai, Hawaii – Small Island Adventure

We just returned from a snorkeling, horseback riding, paddling, and hiking trip to Hawaii. Our first stop on this generational trip was the tiny island of Lanai. Lanai, Hawaii is a small, remote, 90,000-acre island south of Oahu and north of Maui. A more off-the-beaten-path option when traveling through the Hawaiian Islands, Lanai has the least publicly accessible land in the entire island chain. The island, now owned 98% by Larry Ellison, was previously a pineapple plantation.

The island offers one-of-a-kind honeymoon, family and yoga retreats juxtaposed with Axis deer hunting and fishing charters. It is definitely an adventurer’s paradise! I will do my best to share why this island, with its jaw-dropping scenery, gourmet restaurants, and outdoor activities galore captured my heart. I hope to return in the near future (if only it wasn’t so expensive!).

Lodging:

1. Four Seasons Lanai
2. Sensei Lanai, A Four Seasons Adults Only Resort
3. Hotel Lanai
4. Dreams Come True Lanai
5. Camping at Hulopoe (8 campsites available)

Logistics and Scenery:

Upon arriving via a Lanai Airlines charter plane from Honolulu (you can also take a ferry from Maui or a charter from one of the larger islands), we arrived at Lanai’s small airport. We made our way through the hilly island, marveling at a landscape reminiscent of a Mexican desert. As we looked out the van window at all the wildlife, we laughed as our guide told us that what we were seeing along the road were Rio Grande wild turkeys and axis deer. So much for trying to get away from Texas!

From the airport we drove past the colorful and cooler (elevation is 1,700 feet) town of Lanai City. A few minutes out of the city we passed a few bow hunters in full camo getting ready for their afternoon hunt amongst the Cook Island Pines that frame the main road.  Within another 10 minutes, the hillside changed to a lush green, you could see botanical gardens, and just like that we had arrived in front of a beautiful Four Seasons Resort with lush vegetation and gorgeous views of the ocean and Hulopoe Beach. I highly recommend renting a car to get around the island as it is as vast as it is small.

Covid Requirements as of June 15th:

After checking in and taking our obligatory pictures with our leis (and after my kids had spent twenty minutes pressing every button on our hotel room’s fancy Japanese toilet), we headed to the Lanai Community Center. Unfortunately, we had to get yet another Covid test, which was necessary for our upcoming island hop to the Big Island. On June 4, 2021, Governor David Ige announced the end of all restrictions for inter-county travel, starting June 15, 2021. All inter-county travelers no longer need to take a COVID-19 test or quarantine, regardless of their vaccination status or where they were vaccinated.

Although Hawaii is continuing to relax Covid restrictions, you still need a negative covid test to enter the state regardless of your vaccination status. Presently, proof of vaccination is not a recognized exemption to the Hawaii travel quarantine, unless you were vaccinated within Hawaii. My boys actually received their second vaccine while we were there, although I am not sure that would allow them to bypass testing on any future trips! For more information on Hawaii’s current travel requirements, please click here. It is highly recommended to work with a travel advisor when traveling to Lanai. The restaurants and available activities are at reduced capacity and reservations need to be made in advance to enjoy everything the island has to offer.

Adventurer’s Paradise:

We signed up for every available activity we could in a 3 night timeframe. You name it, we did it! Snorkeling both off the beach and off a boat, horseback riding, swimming, a ropes course, and hiking. The activities we didn’t get to are: scuba diving (I’m no longer certified), paddling (saving it for the Big Island), surfing (Hulopoe Bay is protected), mountain biking (the Munro trail was closed), golfing (several world-renowned golf courses, just no golfers in my family) and fishing (ran out of time!). More on available activities below.

1) Hiking:

• Pu’upehe Trail (Sweetheart Rock Trail): This is a quick hike best to visit during daybreak although a sunset hike here is also nice. This trail offers gorgeous views, trail markers detailing rich folklore, but no shade. If hiking with varying ages, keep in mind its rocky terrain. If struggling with jet lag and wide awake at 5:30 AM, what better way to start your day than this gorgeous trail? It’s a 20 minute hike, and you can add on Hulopoe beach and the Hulopoe-Huawai Fisherman’s Trail (lava rock coastal trail) to make it a 1 hour hike (it took us longer because we made multiple stops to take landscape photos and visit the tidepools on the eastern side of the bay!).

• Koloiki Ridge Hike: This moderate 4.2 mile out-and-back shaded hike takes about 2 hours depending on your group. Our group of 10 ranged from 11 years old to a fit 73 years old. To access the trail, you can park at Lanai Adventure Park, get a map, and head out. The most technical part is the beginning descent and it’s super short. The majority of the trail takes place in the trees until you reach the ridge where you will be rewarded with an beautiful vantage point of the Maunalei Valley as well as the islands of Maui and Molokai.

• Shipwreck Beach: Kaiolohia Bay, also known as Shipwreck Beach, is located on the north side of Lanai, about a half-hour’s drive from Lanai City. From the parking area, it is a 1-mile walk along the shoreline to a good view of the WWII-era concrete tanker that the US Navy accidentally wrecked on the reef! It’s a very short hike (more of a beach walk), and the most challenging part of the hike is getting there (four-wheel drive is recommended for access).

2) Snorkeling:

• Hulopoe Bay is the best spot on the island for snorkeling. The best snorkeling is over on the left side of the bay where you’re facing the ocean. There is also the option to take a catamaran (booked through Lanai Ocean Sports) for a 3-hour snorkeling excursion to discover why Lanai is a top snorkeling site. Opting for the public catamaran tour, we started our excursion surrounded by dolphins, had a great snorkeling experience (they supply all gear), and smooth sailing. We had one member of our party get seasick and Captain Kama and his crew went above and beyond to keep him comfortable.

Question:

Have you heard of motion sickness glasses? The captain supplied them to our ill family member, and they really seemed to help. You look ridiculous wearing them, but if you are dealing with motion sickness, I promise you won’t care what you look like! (Yes, he took medication before boarding and wore motion sickness bands as well.)

3) Horseback Riding:

• Trail riding is available at Lanai Ranch, otherwise known as Ranch at Ko’ele. My boys are comfortable on a horse but are not yet comfortable cantering, which resulted in a very slow trail ride. I was happy to get them back in the saddle, but it was not the highlight of my trip. Our guide was marvelous and a wealth of information; it was just really hot and dusty while we were there. Apparently they also offer Zen Horse Sunset Yoga (co-facilitated by a yoga instructor and an equestrian master) at Lanai Ranch at Ko’ele. I have no idea what horse yoga is and I’m dying to find out more!

4) Lanai Adventure Park:

• Lanai Adventure Park offers both a zipline course soaring above the ruggedly beautiful landscape of Ko’ele Ranch AND a challenging two-level ropes course over a body of water. We chose the ropes course and got one heck of an upper body workout! Fun for all ages.

Polynesian Culture:

Also of note was the opportunity to learn about Polynesian culture. The Four Seasons offers multiple opportunities to learn about the local Polynesian culture. The Resort’s Love Lanai Cultural Practitioner loves to share stories of her childhood on the island, and how its natural beauty shaped its history. The Love Lanai program connects people to local culture and island traditions and encourages guests to “go holoholo” – the local term for going walking, riding or driving, exploring and doing new things, just for the fun of it.

For a truly memorable experience, Lanai’s kupuna(island elders) invite guests to learn Hawaiian crafts and “talk story” – share vivid tales and oral history as they have done for generations.

Why I Want to Return:

I would love nothing more than to go back to this beautiful island someday. I loved the slow pace of life, the abundant natural beauty, and the remote feel of Lanai. On a return trip, I want to check out Shipwreck Beach, do a lot more snorkeling, and hopefully scuba dive as well (I just need to get re-certified first!). I know my husband would love to go back for the hunting and fishing opportunities.