This sleepy beach town just an hour from Cabo is quickly becoming a chic spot to surf, enjoy wildlife, sample the delicious local cuisine, and relax. While Todos Santos has been a haven for foodies, artists, fishers, surfers, and mountain bikers for years, well-heeled tourists are starting to populate the area and development is picking up. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing as long as everything is kept in balance, right?
After an easy hour long drive from the rental car facility in Los Cabos, we made it through the cute little village of Pescadero and then a few minutes later found ourselves rolling through the beautiful small-town charm of Todos Santos. One visit to Todos Santos and its art galleries, architecture, cafes, surf shops, and boutique hotels, and one immediately sees why it’s included in Mexico’s list of “Pueblos Magicos” (magical towns). After driving through town, we eventually ran out of pavement and finished our journey on a two-mile stretch of bumpy dirt road that led us to our hotel. I was thrilled to see our hotel was situated on a pristine, secluded beach! This is a completely different vibe from Los Cabos, which is exactly what we were seeking!
There is a direct flight out of Austin to the Cabo San Lucas airport on both Southwest and American. You’ll want to rent a car upon landing, and you may want to consider renting an SUV (we had a Jeep Wrangler) as some of the roads can be treacherous in a sedan. That stretch of dirt road to our hotel would have been pretty rough (and slow going) in a small car. Most hotels can arrange transportation to and from the airport, but having your own car makes it easier to navigate all that makes Todos Santos special. The area is pretty spread out, especially if you are going back and forth from the beach into town or as far out as La Paz.
American rental companies tend to have newer vehicles although we were pleased with our Jeep Rental from Mex Rent-a-Car. Before returning your vehicle and refueling, I want to point out that all gas stations in the area are full service, so be ready with a little tip money. I suggest printing out driving instructions to your destination in advance because you never know what your cell service will be like. Mine was spotty in several areas along the way.
Let me start by saying safety first! We did our research and not once did we feel unsafe in the Todos Santos area. No matter where you are in the world, always use common sense and don’t carry around large sums of money and keep your flashy jewelry at home!
Villa Santa Cruz was our kid-friendly lodging of choice. The gorgeous boutique hotel located just north of Todos Santos is continuing to grow to keep up with demand. You can walk down the beach to the well-known surf break La Pastora to watch the surfers, sit out on the pool deck with views of the Sierra de la Laguna mountain range, or take in a sunset while watching whales breach from the cozy observation palapa if that’s your preference!
Pros: My personal highlights were the level of service and the two restaurants. Not sure how they afford all of the overhead, but I am not complaining about the fresh coffee and juice delivery every morning to our room, the gorgeous grounds, or the attentive staff. I can see why this hotel is a popular wedding destination. All of the villas, complimentary beach yoga sessions, tented ocean suites, and main house had the authentic Mexican vibe we were going for. I loved the attention to detail.
Cons: You can enjoy the pool (one more is in the works) but frolicking in the surf is not recommended unless you are a strong swimmer. The waves coming to shore are big, powerful, and steady. This white sand beach is ideal for experienced surfers and for leisurely strolls. Also, there is the aforementioned bumpy two-mile dirt road every time you want to get into town (though the seclusion is part of the appeal). Villa Santa Cruz is a 30-minute drive from Cerritos Beach and a 15-minute drive from the center of Todos Santos.
I can’t live in Austin and not mention this hotel by Austin-based hotelier Liz Lambert. It is a new, hip hotel similar to the Hotel San Jose in Austin but with better views and a better pool! San Cristobal is for individuals 12+, so leave your small children at home. There are no villas, and everything is compact rather than spread out. The rooms are generous in size and the décor is gorgeous.
Pros: The amenities are top-notch, the pool area is well laid out, the beds are fantastic, it has a great bar, library, and restaurant, and its location is within ten minutes of Cerritos Beach and the historic Todos Santos center.
Cons: The hotel has only one restaurant and there is not another one in walking distance. While the hotel is on Punto Lobos beach, the surf is not swimmable and is primarily used by local fishermen. The beach is great for watching the whale migration if you visit from November to February.
This adult-only hotel is part of the World of Hyatt (points accepted!). We did not get a chance to visit Rancho Pescadero, but I would like to stay here on a kid-free trip to check out this newly renovated property. The buildings and rooms look absolutely gorgeous! Inquire by phone for access to their spa.
Green Room Restaurant: A beachfront restaurant next to the Villa Santa Cruz hotel. Amazing seafood right on the beach with views of the surf and local surfers. Their signature mezcal drink is worth the visit alone!
Jazamango Café: Farm-to-table fare with chef Javier Plascencia
Coyote in Pescadero: The chef was featured in Food and Wine best new chefs.
Oystera: great seafood and an absolutely gorgeous restaurant
Bonjour Madame: French bakery on the way to Villa Santa Cruz. Good breakfast and lunch.
Barracuda Cantina: There is one on Cerritos Beach and one in Todos Santos. The OG Marg is the best in the area! Featured in Netflix Taco Chronicles.
Agricole: Basically a mini Whole Foods with great wine, great produce, great take-out, and a restaurant outside. Located on Highway 19 after passing through Pescadero on the way to Todos Santos.
Help out Tortuguero Todos Santos with sea turtle hatchling releases into the ocean. The season starts in December and runs until around March. Enedino, the caretaker of this amazing nonprofit, takes donations. Releases are available every day from 3:30 and end at 5:30. Participants use coconut shells to release the turtles.
Surf lessons on Cerritos Beach with Mario Surf School or Explora Baja are a must while in the area. All gear is provided in the cost including wetsuits during the winter months. If you prefer to go out on your own, you can pick up or have a surfboard delivered from Todos Santos Surf Shop.
This tour with Todos Santos Eco Adventures came highly recommended. The Gulf of California, also known as the Sea of Cortez, is worth exploring. Unfortunately, this tour sold out before I could book it. The tour includes park fees.
This is another great tour to book with Todos Santos Eco Adventures or via a luxury catamaran tour with Baja Charters. Tours are out of La Paz. Transportation is an additional cost. Swimming with the whale sharks is highly regulated by Mexico’s SEMARNAT (the Secretary of Environment and Natural Resources) and seeing a whale shark is not guaranteed. We made the mistake of not reserving this in time as the more popular providers book out two months in advance during the high season.
Bring your own bike or rent a bike and gear from Over The Edge Baja Bike Shop. Local trail tours, cross country adventure tours, bike repairs, and bike rentals are available. Amazing trails are accessible within 5 minutes of the shop, including the Punto Lobos trail which winds through the foothills of the scenic Sierra de la Laguna mountains and the rolling sand dunes of the Pacific coast.
Be sure to bring reusable water bottles for activities (make sure the water is purified!), a GoPro for water-based excursions, biodegradable sunscreen if you plan to swim with whale sharks, and a sweater for breezy dinners on the beach. You could also skip the sweater and buy a Baja hoodie upon arrival as a trip souvenir!
The beach bonfire and mariachi band we enjoyed on New Year’s Eve while listening to the crashing waves was just the icing on the cake! We wanted a slower pace of life after a fast-paced year and Todos Santos delivered. This is the area to visit for an authentic Baja experience.
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