Hello, Western Ireland. Will You Marry Me?

I recently spent two weeks in what was predominantly western Ireland with my husband, Mike, and our 5-year old daughter, Merrin. While I write this post, I am going to be googling synonyms for “beautiful,” because wow! The country is something special with its epic landscapes, history, and charm spread along the Wild Atlantic Way.

The first leg of our journey was a flight from New York to Dublin. We recovered from our jetlag at the Aloft Dublin, a beautiful bargain property. The next few days were spent driving west with the Wild Atlantic Way as our destination. The 1,500-mile-long coastal road known as the Wild Atlantic Way covers the Irish west coast starting in the little town of Kinsale in County Cork and ending on the Inishowen Peninsula in County Donegal. Our trip highlights were the Gap of Dunloe, the Dingle Peninsula, and Connemara National Park.

Killarney

Our starting base for the Wild Atlantic Way was Killarney, a mid-sized town near the southwest coast of Ireland. I booked the Muckross Park Hotel in Killarney. It was hard to tell whether or not the quality of the accommodations in the smaller towns along the Wild Atlantic Way would be as advertised. The Muckross Park Hotel was a safe bet! Killarney is a short distance from multiple attractions. We easily could have justified spending more than the three nights I budgeted.

Gap of Dunloe

The weather during our stay in Killarney was going to be a mixed bag. My heart was set on seeing the Gap of Dunloe, a narrow pass between the Macgillycuddy Reeks and Purple Mountain Ranges. It promised bubbling streams, peaceful expanses of lake, and majestic peaks. The lakes turned out to be not-so-peaceful (more on that later). We picked the best weather day for the Gap of Dunloe! This is important because you can’t retreat to the car for shelter while passing through the Gap.

Gap of Dunloe Logistics

The internet promised that we could walk through the Gap. It is roughly 7 miles from Kate Kearney’s Cottage to Lord Brandon’s Cottage (or the reverse). Discussing this plan with hotel staff resulted in wide-eyed expressions and “I dunno about that” comments. We quickly changed plans! The hotel staff arranged for a boat to take us to Lord Brandon’s Cottage, where a horse-drawn buggy (jaunting car) would finish the trip through the Gap to Kate Kearney’s Cottage. Our outfitter for the excursion was Gap of Dunloe Tours.

Crossing Lough Leane

Our boat captain, Timmy, picked us up from Ross Castle, with one other passenger. Lough Leane (meaning Lake of Learning) looked smooth and peaceful as we pulled out in our 15-foot fishing boat. That didn’t last long! The wind blowing across the lake whipped up waves about two to three feet tall. As we crossed the waves, water sprayed up over the bow, soaking those of us sitting closer to the front. I was thankful for the layers of Smartwool we were wearing. Unfortunately, our rain gear was stashed in a backpack… Things calmed down when we finished crossing Lough Leane and started to move through the river and upper lakes. Timmy also told us about tarps that are stored at the front of the boat for just such issues. I highly recommend asking for the tarps BEFORE pulling out onto Lough Leane. Wear your rain gear even if the skies are clear.

Points of Interest

Timmy pointed out many great spots for fishing, monastery ruins on an island in the lake, and a bridge with a pointed arch. The bridge was built by the original owners of Muckross House to accommodate the family’s small sailboat. Lough Leane behind us, we were able to enjoy spectacular views of the mountains, the peaceful sounds of nature, and the company of our fourth passenger, Dale Crosby (in from London).

Denny and his Horse, Piper

Denny Coffee and his horse, Piper, picked us up from Lord Brandon’s Cottage in a jaunting car. They were eager to get moving to stay ahead of the bad weather that was in the forecast. The jaunting car is a little buggy that can accommodate Denny and about four other people.

Before climbing to the Gap, Piper pulled us through the Black Valley (so named because there are parts that never see any sunlight). The climb was very steep, and Denny asked Mike and Dale to walk part of it to make things a bit easier for Denny’s horse. As we approached the peak and began to descend toward the Gap, great gusts of wind encouraged us to pull our hats down tighter over our ears.

The Gap of Dunloe is a must see if visiting western Ireland. The wind is strongest as you pass through the gap and descend toward Kate Kearney’s Cottage. Keep an eye out for wild horses on the Killarney National Park property to the right of the trail as you descend. Of course, the glorious peaks of both the Macgillycuddy Reeks and Purple Mountain Ranges are impossible to miss.

We saw one pair of hikers ascending to the Gap as we rode down the path in the jaunting car. Later, this same pair returned to Kate Kearney’s Cottage, where we were warming up, clearly not having hiked all the way to the Gap. I think the walk definitely would be a fun challenge in better weather.

A Common Dilemma When Exploring Western Ireland Driving the Wild Atlantic Way

The next full day of our stay in Killarney presented a common dilemma. Should we drive the Ring of Kerry or the Dingle Peninsula? It really was a tough call, as we knew there would not be enough time to do both. In the end, Dingle seemed a bit more manageable, and its natural beauty was not disputed by anyone we asked.

The Dingle Peninsula

The Dingle Peninsula (specifically the drive to Slea Head) is a series of increasingly spectacular views of the Atlantic Ocean and the Irish countryside. I think it is the juxtaposition of the two that makes the drive especially gorgeous. The waves crashing against the cliffs of the peninsula and the serene hills of rolling green really make your imagination run wild. It’s fun to visualize what it might have been like to live in Ireland in prehistoric times.

Although we did not have enough time to see the church with a peaked roof made entirely of stone (no mortar), we did see the beehive huts of the same style. Entry to the site with the huts was €6 for the three of us. It is unclear when the huts were built. The technique of building domed structures by stacking rocks in tighter and tighter concentric circles was used in prehistoric times and as recently as the 13th century A.D. One of the structures we visited still has a roof of several large capstones. That particular hut seemed to be well constructed enough to keep out most or all of the rain, and you could see where the inhabitants would have built their fires.

Burren and the Cliffs of Moher

Continuing along the Wild Atlantic Way, we spent less time in the Burren than we did in the Killarney area, but I highly recommend staying at least three nights. The primary purpose of our Burren visit was to see the Cliffs of Moher, which were absolutely epic and not to be missed. However, a few more nights would have allowed us to possibly hit the Cliffs of Moher on a better weather day and more fully explore the Burren. Burren is an area of rolling, green hills dotted by massive boulders.

We stayed at Gregans Castle Hotel (bespoke luxury), which offers a three-hour, guided walking tour of the area. Fellow travelers took the tour and received an in-depth education of Burren history, archaeology, and ecology. There are numerous signs for trailheads, and the hiking is spectacular.

For more reasonably priced Burren accommodations, check out Monks in Ballyvaughn. We had dinner at Monks (fabulous seafood!) and were told its lodge, which is right on the edge of Galway Bay, is completely new as of the end of 2021.

Connemara National Park

The last two days of our West Ireland adventure were spent in Connemara National Park. Of all the varied Irish landscapes we explored, this was the most otherworldly. As we drove into the park, following a period of heavy rain, we saw streams running down the rocky mountains. I imagined the paths of the water being carved out of the mountains over thousands of years.

If you’re over forty, then you’ve probably watched A River Runs Through It on more than one occasion. Am I right?! Imagine that movie, except you’re on the banks of the Ballynahinch River, bordered by a forest of fir, cypress, and scotch pine, all of which are partially covered in bright green moss. Mike took a fly-fishing lesson and was enchanted by his surroundings, even though he did not catch any trout. Fishing in the national park is entirely catch and release. Between late March and the end of summer, salmon may be running the Ballynahinch River in addition to trout.

We did part of the railway walk and all of the lake walk on the Ballynahinch Castle property. Both were incredibly beautiful, but I preferred the railway walk, because the soundtrack was the flowing river.

To maximize your time in Connemara National Park, I recommend visiting on your own or with other adults. It really is all about the hiking and fishing. If your child is between the ages of three and ten and anything like mine, suggestions of going hiking will be met with complaints of aching feet and tired legs.

Pro Tips for Your Ireland Adventure

• If you plan to explore western Ireland and drive along the Wild Atlantic Way, fly into Shannon rather than Dublin. The slightly higher cost of the ticket likely will be offset, because you will need less gas to get around. There are a few nice things to see in Dublin, but my opinion is that Ireland is really all about the west.
• Spend at least three nights in each region you plan to visit. This will maximize your chances of hitting a good weather day to enjoy whatever outdoor sites you want to explore.
• Many hotel rates include breakfast. These breakfasts can be very hearty. They are great to power up before spending the day enjoying the area, rather than sitting in a restaurant for (and buying) lunch.
• If you plan to rent a car, check whether your auto policy covers a rental car in Ireland. Our insurance would not have covered us. We were very glad to have insurance through Sixt, as we hit a pothole and blew a tire the first day we had the rental car.
• This isn’t Ireland specific, but always make sure your rental car has a spare tire!
• Rely on the staff at your accommodation to help set up excursions, provide restaurant recommendations, and generally assist with miscellaneous issues that arise. Mount Juliet Estate found a taxi to take us to the hotel from a remote area about an hour away when our tire blew out. The locals often know each other and can get things handled more efficiently than you can.
• Book activities in advance! Appointments may fill up quickly in the summer for horseback riding, fly fishing, hawk walks, ziplining, and all the other fun things you might want to consider scheduling.

Packing Tips

• Pack for dressing in layers. The Irish are fond of saying they often experience all four seasons in a day, and it’s so true. Rain in the forecast for the day could mean rain in the morning and a sunny afternoon.
• Pack all over-the-counter medications you might conceivably need on your trip. Various over-the-counter medications and supplements available at most pharmacy or grocery stores in the US will require a prescription in Ireland. Pharmacies in Ireland close for national holidays, including St. Patty’s Day.
• Bring a holder for your cell phone to mount it to the car vent. It helps to be hands-free when navigating new terrain.

Why I Want to Return

Even though we spent two weeks in Ireland, most of it on the west coast, there is still so much of the western part of Ireland that I need to see. Many people mentioned Donegal County as a beautiful and very different part of the country, and, of course, we’ll have to return to do the Ring of Kerry. Looks like we will continue along the Wild Atlantic Way driving route next time we visit.

We’ll be back in 2023! As they say on the Emerald Isle, “it’s settled.” To read more about our trip, activities for kids, and lodging choices, click here for our Ireland Part 2 write-up!